Zermat 2023: Day 2 at Gornergrat

Gornergrat Experience

Gornergrat 2019                                   Gornergrat 2023

Gornergrat 2019                                   Gornergrat 2023

This blog is a result of finding a blog from 2023 in ‘drafts’ on the weekend. I have lots of people who are looking to travel to the mountains in Europe ask me about our experiences so I thought I should get it posted. It is also going to be a wonderful reminder of how lucky we have been to visit these beautiful areas.

Gornergrat Glacier and Climate Change

Goodness knows what the Gornergrat Glacier retreat looks like now another two years after we saw it in 2023. I fear for the future, especially following the collapse of the mountain and Birch Glacier onto Blatten, a small Swiss village. Read about this tragic story here. 

Around every corner is the spectaular Matterhorn

On Day 2 we caught the train to the top of Gornergrat. This train costs 120 Swiss Francs (CHF) for both of us when using the Swiss half price train card. This half price card is definitely worth buying as it cuts the cost of all train and gondola rides in half. Some of these gondolas may seem expensive, but the infrastructure, staffing and maintenance all must cost a fortune and these structures give us amazing access to these very beautiful regions.

These photos above from both trips to the Zermatt region 2019 and 2023 give a good indication of the weather differences between the two trips. The first trip was early September, 2019 and the second trip was June 2023. We were absolutely freezing up at the top of Gornergrat in 2019, rugged up with puffer coat, jumpers, woollen scarfs and beanies and we were still freezing, but on the second trip it was burning hot sun and very warm (like about 26C at the top 3.123 metres!). You can see the difference in the size and extent of the Gornergrat Glacier in the photos.

After the mandatory hot chocolate, we caught the train back to Rotenboden and then walked to Riffleberg. The scenary here on this whole section of the walk was magnificent. We sat at one stage and there was no one else walking where we were and we had the whole panorama to ourselves while we ate lunch. It was peaceful and breath taking.

 

   

Rotenboden to Riffleberg walk with the Matterhorn – this photo represents how huge the presence of the Matterhorn truly is as you are walking around 

Riffelalp to Furi

After a slow lunch of the manditory ham roll and juice we then continued walking to the Riffelalp train station and caught the train to a very small station called Findelbach. We disembarked and walked to Furi – an uphill walk (200mts gain elevation) and found a fantastic refugio called Aroleid where I had a chocolate fix with a view – an iced chocolate and chocolate icecream to die for. There was a BBQ raging there that ultimately smoked us out, but word has it that if you love meat – their meat platters are excellent.

Areloid is a Michelin rated restaurant definitely if you love BBQ meat for which it is famous apparently

Gletshergarten (Glacier Garden)

We then headed to the suspension bridge which I bravely strode across without once looking down (or at the view). Having see-through metal flooring and being a swing bridge is definitely challenging for someone who is scared of heights, but I managed it……somehow.

 

From there we hiked up to the Gletshergarten (Glacier Garden), an area that was discovered by Yvo Biner, a hotel manager, in 1966. He excavated and landscaped the site, opening it to the public in 1974. Information panels along the trail describe the geological features.

There are glacial potholes which are cup-shaped depressions formed by swirling glacial meltwater scattered throughout the gardens and a soapstone quarry, believed to have been mined during the Middle Ages. There is a boulder set atop the stump of a larch tree that lived from 1453 to 1623. During a period of glacier advance in the 17th century local people cut down trees, including this larch, to save the valuable lumber before it was engulfed by the advancing glacier. As the glacier approached the furthest point of its advance in about 1667, it deposited a boulder on top the stump. (1)

Here are Bob’s notes – he does a lot of research and it makes for a wonderful trip always!

DAY 2
Gornergrat – Rotenboden – Riffelberg 98 CHF full price each
3km, 2hrs, 500m descent 18m ascent
From next to main train station, take Gornergrat train to top. The train runs about every 24 minutes, first train at 7:00, last train down at 19:18.
Walk down to Riffelsee (famous lake) then Rotenboden (1hr) then Riffelberg (30mins), then Riffelalp (1hr). Walk (1hr 25min) or take the train back to Zermatt.
Last train back to Zermatt 20:20pm.
It’s possible to continue the hike all of the way down to Zermatt (2 hours) via Rifflealp and Furi. Keep right before getting to Furi. This is through forest.
Or from Riffelberg you can take the Gornergrat Railway back to Zermatt (CHF 40) or ride the Riffelberg Express via Furi then to Zermatt.

(1) Hiking and Walking in Gletshergarten