Grindelwald Hikes, September 2025

Off to Grindelwald

Farewell to Riva del Garda

I have been enjoying my holiday too much and have slackened off with the diary writing, so I have decided to jump straight to Grindelwald and come back to Riva some other time (let’s hope it’s in my lifetime). I am reminding everyone this is a very personal blog for us to remind us of our trip so there are lots of self-indulgent photos.

Day 13, Wednesday 10th September, 2025 

We left Riva del Garda and encountered some serious Italian rain. Driving the hire car into Verona in driving rain was as stressful as you can imagine it could be, but I stayed silent (while gripping on furiously to the handle beside me on the door) and Bob got us there beautifully in one piece and we drove straight into a car park at the hire company – almost unheard of I believe!

I just want to mention what a delightful man he was receiving the car – we didn’t get to fill it with petrol due to the weather conditions and I also didn’t think the toll payment had worked on the way off the motorway. He was charming and said “No worries, we will look after it for you (we have your credit card)” – but it was the way he said it that made the difference. Genuinely lovely, happy man.

We got on the train at Verona and had a pleasant ride for 20 minutes until the train stopped for a protracted length of time meaning we were made 25 mins late for our change of train in Milan and missed it. Worse still the next train to Lugano had been cancelled.

The literal moment the complicated train travel day started to unravel

It is complicated getting from Milan to Grindelwald at the best of times with lots of changes to connecting trains. The following train was run by a different train company so our ‘already paid for’ tickets couldn’t be used at all for the next train. We didn’t care, we just said no worries we’ll buy the seats – trouble was, the train representative was saying no seats were available on that train – it was sold out.

Faced with a complete disaster of a journey to Grindelwald, we did what anyone would (should) do – we jumped on it anyway and hoped for the best. There were two spare seats in first class (which we had actually paid for) and surprisingly for two hours we saw no one – no one to check our tickets or tell us what to do. I sat on the edge of the seat with my back pack on and luggage between my legs in a nervous bind waiting to be thrown off the train at any moment.

By this time we were well and truly in Switzerland and finally three (not one or two) Swiss conductors came around and we explained the situation and they said no worries – something bad happened at Como and this has caused chaos. (I feel this happens regularly with Italian trains). They told us that because we had paid for first class seats and not a super saver (cheaper) ticket, it meant we could use any train to get to our destination (Grindelwald) in Switzerland. Moreover, one of the conductors found us a panoramic train that would get us to Grindelwald quicker than if we had continued on to Zurich and then back to Grindy like we had worked out. We were pinching ourselves and finally relaxed into our seats, put the luggage away and took in the truly panoramic view.

 

On the scenic Panorama train to Grindy 

A story to add to the travel stories compilation for sure.

Finally arrived at Grindelwald

 

The Derby Hotel, Grindelwald just next door to the Grindelwald Station

We arrived at our hotel and our room was as we had hoped, staring straight at the North Face of the Eiger. Again because this holiday was delayed for two years, it has been long-awaited and all of the accommodation that Bob has located after hours of research has been spectacular. It is perfectly located right at Grindelwald Train Station so it means we step out of the hotel and onto the platform when we leave to catch our final train to Zurich to head home.

Grazing and gazing on the verandah

We zipped up to the COOP in Grindelwald which I have read is the only place with queues, but that first day there were no queues, just much more manageable food prices than eating in a restaurant anywhere in Grindelwald. Food (everything) is expensive in Grindelwald. We elect to graze on cheese, BBQ chicken quarters and salads from the COOP on our verandah for dinner, rather than eating out for this holiday.

The COOP is located in that interesting building in the centre of the photo

One day, two weeks into the holiday, I was looking at one of my favourite Instagram pages called “Liz the Dietician” and I was literally drooling at all the healthy food she was making and it is one thing I am dying to get back home to do is COOK SOMETHING HEALTHY (that doesn’t involve bread)!

Day 14, Thursday 11th September, 2025

The initial planned walk was called: Walk A: Grindelwald-First-Bachalpsee-Waldspitz-Grindelwald. You can see it marked in red. We were going to get a bus from Waldspitz back down to Grindelwald.

Grindelwald-First-Bachalpsee (gave up on) then First back to Bort and walked Bort to Grindelwald

The first morning dawned bright and sunny in Grindelwald, but with some light cloud cover over the top of the mountain where we were headed today.

Sign to Firstbahn (or First Gondola) about 20 minutes walk from the Grindelwald train station and our hotel

We had planned to take the gondola to First and then hike from First to Bachalpsee (46mins, 100m up). We did the First Cliff Walk which as you can see from the photos was shrouded in cloud (which meant my usual fear of heights was completely obliterated). We then attempted to go up the Bachalpsee walk for about 30 mins, but the cloud was impossibly dense and there was no view anywhere and we made the call to turn around and head much lower down to see if we could see some views.

 

Bob on the First Cliff walk – I actually managed it easily because I couldn’t see the sheer drop down due to the fog

We caught the First gondola back down to Bort and yes the cloud was not there and the views were stunning. We had morning tea at the Alpinhotel Bort and after a delicious pancake wonderment called Kaiserschmarren mit Apfelmus, we started the descent to Grindelwald.

The views were magnificent and the prices were huge (yes that pancake dessert is the equivalent of $30 AUD but I could do it again in a flash – and you will see that I did!)

Alpinhotel Bort and the delicious pancake dessert 

It was such a beautiful hike as you can see from the photos. While the mountain with snow on the top, which is just there the whole way down, was magnificent, it was the cuddling cows that stole the show. I have never seen such a thing and it was magical. Unfortunately I can’t post the video in the blog to see them literally ‘cuddling in’, but the still photo is still cute.

   

A barn looks like it was disrupted at some stage by flooding and the ‘cuddling cows’ 

Lots of forest to walk through

The walk down from Bort to Grindelwald took us through forest and open paddocks and took us 3 hours and was 500 metres down. The legs were a bit quivery by the time we arrived back at the hotel.

Grazing plate and a Cava (the Swiss version of Prosecco) for dinner on the verandah staring at the Eiger

Day 15, Friday 12th September, 2025

Grindelwald to Pfingstegg in the cable car, walk to Milchbach Rifugio, down to Hotel Wetterhorn, brisk walk to Klusi to catch a direct bus to Grindelwald Glacier and Canyon

This day we planned to catch the Pfingsteggbahn cable car at the east end of Grindelwald to get to the mid-level Rifugio as again there was high-level cloud. This trail took us through beautiful scenic pathways with mossy rocks and beautiful greenery until we reached a tunnel through the old glacier called Breitlouwina Tunnel constructed in 2005/2006.

   

The scenery was unbelievably beautiful

As we approached the Milchbach Hutte (which was closed), the spectacular view of the Glacier Valley suddenly appeared and it was breathtaking. The sun was catching the glistening rock face and it was hard to look away. Perched on a precarious edge high up on the rock face was a building which we thought was a Rifugio for intrepid climbers, but actually is the remnants of first mountain station of the first cable car on The Wetterhorn Mountain – called Enge Mountain Station. First built in 1908, it ceased operations in 1915 following a lack of tourists during the war. There is a replica of the cabin at the Wetterhorn Hotel where our walk finished. Its position makes you wonder how on earth it was built!

This trip has made us realize how wonderful it would have been to discover the mountains much earlier in our lives so we were fitter to do some of these harder amazing walks.

        

It was another ‘ultrascenic’ walk with the Enge Mountain Station remnants perched precariously on the edge

As we munched on our lunch at a spot near the Wetterhorn Hotel, we couldn’t decide whether to go up to Grosse Scheidegg and have a look, or go down to Grindelwald and get a second bus to the Gletscher und Schlucht (glacier and canyon) and in the process of deciding, we missed both buses. However, Bob with his amazing detective skills, found a direct bus from Klusi to the Grindelwald Glacier and Canyon which was a 30 minute walk away. In Brisbane, we just wouldn’t do it – we’d call an Uber, but here, being so amazingly scenic (and it was all downhill), we set off at a great pace and made the bus with minutes to spare.

Transport costs in Grindelwald

Transport is a big cost in Switzerland, but it is why you travel there. For buses, the principle is that the buses are expensive, unless they are free. Some of the local ones are free if you are staying at a hotel (you get a travel card form the hotel reception), but many of the buses are very expensive if not in that scheme, for example 27 CHF one way for two for about a 20 minute bus ride (with a Swiss Half fare card) from Grosse Scheidegg to Grindelwald. Examples of the gondola prices are: Grindelwald to First is 36 CHF for two people one way. The Swiss half fare card costs 120 CHF each (around $230 AUD) and you get all trains, gondolas and buses for half the cost.

I am going to add up all the transport costs (for gondolas, trains and buses) and put it in another blog when I get home. However, for us – this is why we are here – to get to these amazing places and to hike. So that is why I am happy to eat cheese and bread and forgo the expensive meals out and spend it on transportation. The fact that Brisbane has 50 cent fares on all public transport should really be a big selling point for our city as a tourist centre because if you are using public transport it makes a lot of difference to your expenses (apart from the fact everyone else’s currency eats our Aussie dollar alive)!

We arrived at the Grindelwald Glacier and Canyon and again entry is quite expensive (42 CHF for 2 compared to the Sottoguda Gorge we saw in Italy which was 5 euros each to get in). It is very spectacular. The gorge was created by the joint erosion effects of ice and water. Grindelwald’s Lower Glacier scraped out the rock in the shape of a trough, the melt water under it forged its way through the limestone and washed out the canyon to such an extent that the cliffs today rise up to 300 metres in to the skies. (1)

There were lots of daredevil activities to undertake there, but again they are very expensive with the canyon swing costing 199 CHF – equal to around $400AUD.

       

A little difficult to see in a still shot but there is a daredevil girl showing us how it is done – looking glamorous and skillful

Bob did the free activity (trying to stay standing) on the suspension netting over the Gorge – he was braver than me! I know my limitations

After a big walking day (16.600 steps -11.6kms) we crashed into bed.

Day 16, Saturday 13th September, 2025

Green dotted line Eiger Express from Grindelwald to Eigergletscher

Another day when plans had to change. I am leaving the original plans in here for those who are less worried by the height and the distance. We were due to do Eigergletscher either by train or Eiger Express (quicker) from Grindelwald, then hike down Eiger trail (5hrs, 165m up and 1370m down) or a shorter time from Eigergletscher hike to Berghaus Alpiglen (Rifugio) (3hrs, 90m up and 690m down) then train down to Grindelwald.

   

The Eiger Express and the gondola to Mannlichen both leave from Terminal (at Grindelwald) Massive new cable cars

 The Eiger Trail looked scary close up and I said Yep/Nup to hiking it 

All great plans are the ones that are flexible. When planning this trip I was as keen as mustard to walk the Eiger Trail. I got into the Eiger Express, a magnificent gondola ride beside the North face of the Eiger, and as I saw the extent of the Eiger Trail and I said – I can’t do that. Bob was happy to accept that and we instead walked from the top of the Eiger Glacier Station down to Kleine Scheidegg.

 

Just arrived at the top of the Eiger Glacier Station and heading down the track towards Kleine Scheidegg

 

By ourselves so early in the morning

A panorama shot looking back to Eiger Glacier Station

The iconic train heading for Grindelwald

It was a beautiful day and because we were expecting the weather to deteriorate as the day went on due to the forecast, we had started very early and we were all by ourselves on the trail. There was just us and the landscape and some iconic shapes.

Just the kiosk at Kleine Scheidegg but an example of good design making a difference

(E) Lauterbrunnen Day Trip lime green with pencil line Grindelwald-Mannlichen -Wengen-Lauterbrunnen-Winteregg-Allmendhubel 

As there was plenty of day left once we reached Kleine Scheidegg, we decided  to catch the train to Lauterbrunnen, a village in the next valley, and the cable car up to Grutschalp.

 

On the very scenic train to Lauterbrunnen – view as we go through Wengen and then to Lauterbrunnen

We then caught the connecting train to Murren. We had a 10 year old local child opposite us in the train who was quite the train buff and kept us entertained with lots of train and cable car facts. We walked through Murren, a mountain village without cars and absolutely magnificent views of the Alps. It sits bathed in sunshine high above the Lauterbrunnen Valley.

   

The magic of Murren – a cutie of a house, our magic lunch bench with the view 

We had our sandwiches watching the paragliders and the incredible view for an hour. We were peaceful and relaxed, taking a million photos that never really do justice to the natural beauty. We then caught the Schilthorn Gondola Cable Car – the world’s steepest cable car- over the Murrenfluh, which only takes four minutes down to ground level.

   

One of the many paragliders and the Schilthorn Gondola Cable car

Finally, we caught a bus to Lauterbrunnen and then the fast train to Grindy. It was an amazing day.

All in all, as sad as I was about not being able to say: We walked the Eiger Trail – I am happy we bailed on it and did what we did.

Day 17, Sunday 14th September, 2025

 (B) on the map First to Grosse Scheidegg walk (green line)

Today was another highlight walk of the trip. Murren was fantastic, but there were lots of tourists there. Our walk today from First to Grosse Scheidegg Walk (down hill – 2hrs – 72m up and 270m down, taking the higher walking track, not the road) was just us and a couple of other hikers only. The sky started with some cloud over the top of the mountains but soon cleared  to reveal the magnificent views.

 

 

Sweeping views down the opposite valley – almost at Berghotel Gr Schiedegg

Rolling hills and snow capped mountains

Rolling alpine hills, snow capped mountains – the scenery was such that it triggered a lovely memory for Bob from Grade 3 of his school teacher Miss Warburton who showed him photos of a visit she had made to the Swiss Alps. He vividly remembered that he wanted to visit such a place – and here he is.

Probably the best hot chocolates we had on the trip

We arrived at Gr Scheidegg Berghaus and had our customary hot chocolates while awaiting the bus. A really pleasant morning. The bus (again 27 CHF for two with half price Swiss fare) took us back down to Grindy. 15,000 steps today.

Day 18, Monday 15th September, 2025

(C) purple line line Grindelwald to Mannlichen Gondola then hike to Kleine Scheidegg

Mannlichen hike to Kleine Scheidegg (1.5hrs- 176m down), train down to Grindelwald or hike down to Grindelwald via Berghaus Alpiglen (Refugio) 4hrs and further down Brandegg Rifugio but can catch train and it stops along the way. Shorter and easier than Eiger Trail. Must do ‘Royal Walk’ to look out above Mannlichen.

 

The Mannlichen gondola that you pick up from Terminal and the view over Lauterbrunnen valley

Mannlichen with the Royal Walk to the top viewpoint

Today was a cloudless, warm day and we walked down to Terminal at Grindelwald (about 20 minutes from our hotel) to catch the Mannlichen cable car up to the top. There is a theme here that each day seems to need superlatives like magnificent, beautiful, glorious, but Mannlichen was a new one – jaw dropping. The views went every which way and after a slow crawl for me up to the highest point – the so-called Royal Walk – it was a 360 degree view. So much beauty in one country, in one region….

   

The Royal Walk Mannlichen, Bob went right to the end 

Mannlichen overlooking the Lauterbrunnen Valley big photo to give an idea of scale

After absorbing the view and cluttering up my phone with another couple of hundred pics, we set off for a walk to Kleine Scheidegg. It was busy with many other hikers, which therefore pushed Grosse Scheidegg to the top of the list of best hikes I think.

At the end of the Mannlichen to Kleine Scheidegg walk overlooking Kleine Scheidegg

We then caught the train from Kleine Scheidegg to Alpiglen (10CHF each) and got out and hiked down to Brandegg, a small Rifugio right next to the small train stop where we would pick up the train again. The hike was steep, so lots of small, mincey steps – my quads should be bulging by the end of this trip – but again we were by ourselves which makes it special.

As we were catching the train at Brandegg, we decided to lash out and break our ‘no-alcoholic-drinks-on-hikes rule’ and had an Aperol, a beer with a Rosti and two eggs on top and one serve of view. Delish!

   

Forbidden fruit: Aperol spritzer, a half litre of beer on tap and Rosti with fried eggs

We staggered off the train and into the room with a view.

Day 19, Tuesday 16th September, 2025

The last full day in Switzerland has arrived and with it came the clouds. We have been so blessed with amazing weather that we couldn’t feel sad and we still decided to to do the planned trip of a bus up (27 CHF for 2) to Waldspitz Refugio and then walk down to Bort, and a Gondola to Grindelwald (20CHF for 2). The bus drivers in Grindelwald are lovely friendly people, but also everything has to run like clockwork, so at each stop, even if there are no people waiting they have to stop until the precise scheduled leaving time because the road is only big enough for one bus to travel. They are all in constant radio contact to make sure they do not meet head on.

The classic end to the trip to Waldspitz Rifugio came when our driver reversed the final 200 metres up the road in the dense fog. To be honest I was happy we had seat belts on and that we went up that whole road, not down it.

Making my way slowly down the steep, slightly muddy path at Waldspitz and the Pancake Wonderment Dessert (again) – yes I am obsessed with this dessert

The hike was steep and a little muddy due to recent rain but through alpine forests which were beautiful, and while we missed that special view that I know was lurking behind the thick fog, it was still very enjoyable. Once we got down to Bort, we treated ourselves to a second go at the Pancake Wonderment dessert and at this level (1570   metres), the clouds had vanished again.

One of the best features about Switzerland is the changing nature of the weather – you can never be bored there – it is so changeable.

Day 20, Wednesday 17th September, 2025

Leaving day from Grindelwald

Leaving day has arrived. Always sad, but we have had a great holiday and we are happy to be heading off in good spirits and good health and grateful we could experience such a wonderful time together.

Interlaken from the train on the way to Zurich and the plane home

Some further notes for others capable of hiking up as well as down at Grindelwald:

Since Bob has done so much research I feel it is worth leaving these original notes he made in case you are contemplating a trip to Grindelwald.

Waldspitz Rifugio head towards Bussalp but path deviates not far from Bachalpsee (just after the smaller lake) – do not return via First (2hrs – down 250m), then either bus down or across to Bort cable car mid-station through a forest (1.5hrs – 40m up, 380m down), or walk all the way to Grindelwald (3hrs, 900m down). This is a less difficult and shorter way back and Waldspitz is a Rifugio for food and toilets. It is still a nice way. The forest would be nice and Bort is a nice Rifugio.

Bussalp Rifugio (via Spitzer and Fernandeshitta the lower ‘front option’) and bus back to Grindelwald (3hrs – 150m up and 600m down). Only Rifugio on way is at Bussalp. Total 4.5hours- 242m up and 609m down. 

Bussalp Rifugio (via Gassenboden the ‘higher ‘behind ‘ option) (3hrs – 152m up and 610m down). Visit side track to Faulhorn Rifugio for spectacular view towards Interlaken (20 mins, 115m up). Total 4.5hours- 386m up and 750m down. 

Bussalp Rifugio via Gasthaus Waldspitz and Rasthysi (Total 4.5hrs- 272mup and 639m down). Comments as for above. No need to do this if taking the first option above.

References:

(1) Information at the Gletscher und Schlucht (Glacier and Canyon) Grindelwald